Thursday, September 30, 2010

Step-by-step makeup app for brides - Part I

A make-up artist once told me that often the first thing to go when it comes to cutting a wedding budget is the makeup artist. While that may not be a wise move for most brides -- particularly those with no makeup application skills -- some may opt to go it alone.

To help arm those DIYers, asked makeup artist Anabelle LaGuardia to provide step-by-step instruction for three different bridal looks and she came back with a how-to for the rosy glow bride (who wants an ethereal look), the dramatic plums bride (the edgy bride that is having an evening wedding) and the peaches and cream bride (who wants the classic, natural, glowy look). will post one look each week for the next three Thursdays.

First up: the rosy glow bride [See photo above of Danielle Lovetere-Owens in her day-to-day life (left), and as a rosy glow bride (bridal photo source: Milton Gil Photographers)]:

1. Brows should be professionally shaped prior to your wedding day. A clean line has an eye popping and lifting effect.
2. A facial should be done two weeks prior to the wedding.
3. Face and lips should be exfoliated to remove dead skin. Flakey skin attracts makeup resulting in a cakey appearance.
4. With clean hands, prep skin for makeup with an oil-free moisturizer, eye cream and lip balm.
5. For the best color payoff and staying power, prime the entire eye with a thin layer of concealer. Pat into skin with finger.
6. With a large shadow brush, apply a soft matte pink shadow all over the entire eye. Don’t be shy -- apply generously.
7. To contour the eye, apply a henna-toned shadow to the outer corner and crease with an angled shadow brush. Build the shape and blend in layers.
8. Apply a black liquid liner or black pencil to the upper lash line starting from the inner corner working towards the outer corner sweeping upward.
9. Apply a dark brown pencil to the lower lash line from the outer corner blending inward to the center of the eye.
10. Curl lashes and apply several coats of waterproof mascara. Comb out in between coats to eliminate clumps. For extra volume, apply a few individual lashes (see instructions at bottom).
11. With a thin, stiff angled brush, fill in brows with a shadow a shade lighter than your natural brow color. Blend with a brow brush and set with brow gel.
12. Apply a lightweight foundation with a foundation brush to only the areas of the face that need coverage. Layer coverage if necessary.
13. Use a concealer brush to apply a creamy concealer one shade lighter than your skin tone to your under eye area and pat in with your finger.
14. Use a concealer brush to apply concealer the same shade as your skin to any areas of the face that need extra coverage. Pat with finger to blend.
15. For staying power, set everything with a bronzing powder applied with a big fluffy powder brush. Layer for desired warmth.
16. Apply a bright pink blush to the apples of the cheeks with a blush brush blending outwards towards above your ears.
17. Line lips with a berry toned liner and top with a pinky gold lip color.
18. Add a drop of pink gloss to the center of the lips for added shine.

* How to Apply Individual lashes:

What you will need:

Tray of individual lashes and lash glue (available in beauty supply stores or the cosmetics section of you local drug store. The most popular brand to look for is Ardell.)
Magnifying mirror
Eyeliner and mascara

Step-by-step application of lashes:

1. Choose where you'd like to place the lashes. You can attach them to only the outer edges of your top lash line, to the middle of your top lash line outwards or all throughout the top lash line. On my bridal clients, I personally prefer to apply the lashes from the middle of the eye working outwards. It gives a much more natural appearance then if you were to just apply them to the outer corners.
2. Use tweezers to gently pull the individual lash cluster off the tray. Grab the lash cluster by the end that faces outwards. Dip the tip where the cluster meets into false-lash glue. Do not saturate the tip with too much glue. Only a tiny amount of glue is needed for each cluster.
3. With a magnifying mirror directly in front of you, place the lash cluster where you want it right into the root of the lash line. The lash cluster should rest on top of your own lash. Pick the sparsest regions to attach lashes to. If necessary, press lash more securely in place with the blunt end of your tweezers. Repeat until you have on all the fake lashes you plan on using. Take note that the lash glue is sold in either white or dark. The dark is harder to find. If you can only find the white it will dry clear so don't worry about that.
4. Go over any areas that need to be retouched with the same eyeliner you used in the earlier stages of your eye makeup application. Run mascara gently through the tips of your lash clusters so they blend more naturally with your own lashes. You're all done!

A native New Yorker, Anabelle LaGuardia has 15 years experience as a makeup artist specializing in airbrush makeup for weddings, special events, head shots, shoots and lessons. LaGuardia's insights have appeared in publications including New York Magazine, the Knot, Get Married, AM New York and the New York Observer. In January 2010 she won the Bride's Choice Award by WeddingWire for her caliber of work and thorough customer service.

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