Thursday, October 7, 2010

Step-by-step makeup app for the bride Part II

 Some brides are daring and plan to do their own makeup on their wedding day. To make life easier for them, asked makeup artist Anabelle LaGuardia to provide step-by-step instruction for three different bridal looks. Last Thursday she gave a run-down for the rosy glow bride. This week, LaGuardia provides a step-by-step tutorial for the dramatic plums bride, the edgy bride that is having an evening wedding. Next week: the peaches and cream bride.

The dramatic plums bride [See photo above of Cristel Ramey in her day-to-day life (left), and as a dramatic plums bride (two right photos; photo source: Frank Farina)]:

1. Brows should be professionally shaped prior to your wedding day. A clean line has an eye popping and lifting effect.
2. A facial should be done two weeks prior to the wedding.
3. Face and lips should be exfoliated to remove dead skin. Flakey skin attracts makeup resulting in a cakey appearance.
4. With clean hands, prep skin for makeup with an oil-free moisturizer, eye cream and lip balm.
5. For the best color payoff and staying power, prime the entire eye with a thin layer of concealer. Pat into skin with finger.
6. With a large shadow brush, apply a soft matte lilac tone shadow all over the entire eye. Don’t be shy; apply generously.
7. To contour the eye, apply a rich plum shadow to the outer corner and crease with an angled shadow brush. Build the shape and blend in layers.
8. Apply a deep plum liquid liner or pencil to the upper and lower lash line.
9. Curl lashes and apply several coats of waterproof mascara. Comb out in between coats to eliminate clumps. For extra volume, apply a few individual lashes (see instructions below.)
10. With a thin, stiff angled brush, fill in brows with a shadow a shade lighter than your natural brow color. Blend out with a brow brush and set with brow gel.
11. Apply a lightweight foundation with a foundation brush to only the areas of the face that need coverage. Layer coverage if necessary.
12. Use a concealer brush to apply a creamy concealer one shade lighter than your skin tone to your under eye area and pat in with your finger.
13. Use a concealer brush to apply a concealer the same shade as your skin to any areas of the face that need extra coverage. Pat with finger to blend.
14. For staying power, set everything with a bronzing powder applied with a big fluffy powder brush. Layer for desired warmth.
15. Apply a vibrant plum blush to the apples of the cheeks with a blush brush and blend outwards towards above your ears.
16. Line lips with a burgundy tone liner and top with plumy brown tone lip color.
17. Add a drop of burgundy gloss to the center of the lips for added shine.

* How to Apply Individual lashes:

What you will need:

Tray of individual lashes and lash glue (available in beauty supply stores or the cosmetics section of you local drug store. The most popular brand to look for is Ardell.)
Magnifying mirror
Eyeliner and mascara

Step-by-step application of lashes:

1. Choose where you'd like to place the lashes. You can attach them to only the outer edges of your top lash line, to the middle of your top lash line outwards or all throughout the top lash line. On my bridal clients, I personally prefer to apply the lashes from the middle of the eye working outwards. It gives a much more natural appearance then if you were to just apply them to the outer corners.
2. Use tweezers to gently pull the individual lash cluster off the tray. Grab the lash cluster by the end that faces outwards. Dip the tip where the cluster meets into false-lash glue. Do not saturate the tip with too much glue. Only a tiny amount of glue is needed for each cluster.
3. With a magnifying mirror directly in front of you, place the lash cluster where you want it right into the root of the lash line. The lash cluster should rest on top of your own lash. Pick the sparsest regions to attach lashes to. If necessary, press lash more securely in place with the blunt end of your tweezers. Repeat until you have on all the fake lashes you plan on using. Take note that the lash glue is sold in either white or dark. The dark is harder to find. If you can only find the white it will dry clear so don't worry about that.
4. Go over any areas that need to be retouched with the same eyeliner you used in the earlier stages of your eye makeup application. Run mascara gently through the tips of your lash clusters so they blend more naturally with your own lashes. You're all done!

A native New Yorker, Anabelle LaGuardia has 15 years experience as a makeup artist specializing in airbrush makeup for weddings, special events, head shots, shoots and lessons. LaGuardia's insights have appeared in publications including New York Magazine, the Knot, Get Married, AM New York and the New York Observer. In January 2010 she won the Bride's Choice Award by WeddingWire for her caliber of work and thorough customer service.

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